Some of the best cafes are centred around the tiny Petite Socco.
In Tangiers, the cafes are the centre of all social activity. People sit out all day long and well into the night, drinking mint tea, smoking, relaxing, gossiping, doing business and just watching the world go by. Some of the cafes stay open until 3 or 4 am in the morning, especially on the beachfront.
This is where the "beats" spent most of their time back in the 1950's. It's a great place for just chilling out and just watching people. You can end up spending hours here.
Be warned though, you do get some dodgy characters hanging about these places. Hustlers tend to prey on week or obvious looking tourists. If you are there for any length of time, try to appear relaxed and confident. If you do get hassled a firm but polite "no" of "non" usually does the trick. You'll also find that most Moroccans will be eager to assist you if things get a bit too intense. You are, after all, their main livelihood.
In most cafes, you can get your shoes shined (or anything else you want shined). It's best to tip conservatively; otherwise you'll be plagued by others attracted by your comparative wealth.
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